How to Set Rebar
Setting Rebar with Vertors is a SNAP!!
We put rebar, duro wire and concrete mesh in concrete to over come concrete’s one weakness: concrete is brittle so concrete cracks. We call this reinforcement (re-in-for-cement). We use steel because steel has a sympathetic thermodynamic expansion rate (meaning steel and concrete expand and contract at very similar rates) this keeps the steel and concrete incontact with one another during thermodynamic expansion or contraction.
This article will help if you are setting rebar for the following:
- Reinforced concrete foundation design
- Soil reinforcement design
- Basement reinforcement
- Footing reinforcement
- spread footing foundation
- Seismic reinforcement
- Reinforcement wall
- Structure reinforcement
- Joint reinforcement
- Foundation bridge
- Shear reinforcement
- Rebar reinforcement
- Building reinforcement
- Column reinforcement
- Monolithic mat foundation design
- Masonry or Concrete Retaining Walls
- Patio Walls
- Masonry or Concrete Homes
- Masonry or Concrete Building Walls
- Stem Walls
- Straw Bale Footings
- Concrete ICF Walls
This article is assuming you know how to do the following:
- Design the wall – structure
- Lay out the footing
- Dig the footing
- Set the elevations
- Calculate the Concrete
If you need help learning how to do any of the above go here –>MonumentMasonry.com
DO NOT CUT VERTICAL REBAR TOO LONG – Too long will be anything over 24″ above top of footing! average lenght is 40″ +- a couple of inches depending on exact depth of footing. You need a minimum of 21 inches of #4 rebar above the top of footing. A rebar that is over 36 inches will become very wobbly.
How to Set Reinforcing Rebars Using Vertors
Once you understand how to do everything on the above list you will need to set reinforcing rods (rebar) in such a position as to wind up with the steel rebars suspended in the footing (typically 3″ from any form or soil edges). It must remain in position as and after the concrete is poured. Rebar must be surrounded by the concrete in the footing to do its reinforcement Job. The hardest thing about setting rebar for footings, making it “float” into the mass of the concrete – AND – not be knocked over by the force of the concrete and it comes sliding down the shoot at over 80 pounds per cubic foot in weight.
Rebar chairs come in a variety of sizes shapes and each have a specific use. There was a time not too long ago that the professional “rod busters” or rebar setters, were appalled that we would use plastic chairs. Of course they were approved by architects and engineers a like by tons (literally) of empirical testing in the field. However the complaint of the rod busters was not that the chair was not architecturally sound, no their complaint was that they saved too much labor and of course they were worried about being put out of a job.
Vertors are the ONLY rebar chair whose specific application is to hold up the vertical rebar. There is no other device available on the market today that is designed to hold both the horizontal and the vertical rebar in one application.
It is advantageous to start at one end and place a line of rebar end to end including lap snapping the rebar together with the coupler snaps (see picture) then begin measuring at the start point placing marks on the rebar exactly where the center point of the vertical rebar will be placed – typically according to an architectural plan or an engineering schematic.
Yours in Light and Gratitude,